TRIP REPORT: Mt. Matier Northeast Spur
BACKGROUND INFO
Mt. Matier is a prominent mountain in the Joffre Group, about 45 minutes north of Pemberton. Its peak can been seen from Joffre lakes, while its sizable glacier (Matier Glacier) is responsible for feeding the three green Joffre Lakes. Last summer Chris Ouston and I attempted to climb a 5.9 alpine route on Matier, approaching from Joffre Lakes however, we had to turn back due to bad weather and some poor route finding decisions. This time we approached via Ceriese creek side, which climbs the Anniversary Glacier up to Matier Galcier and to the summit. We decided to do the less complicated Northeast Spur route that would require no rock climbing.
DAY 1: Ceriese Creek to Keith’s Hut
After packing a chili-bin with beers, ice and slamming the trunk, we abandon my car on the edge of Highway 97. There isn’t a cloud in the sky.
We make quick progress through trails and a clear cut before our first challenge was set before us. With fifty of sixty pounds on our backs, and no snow-shoes on our feet, we were post-holing up to out shins, knees or thighs with every step. By mid morning the snow had developed the consistency of soft-serve ice-cream and this slowed us down considerably. In addition to the obvious frustration of constant ankle, and knee twisting, taking giant steps out of each hole wears a man down physiologically.
We encountered some route finding complications as well. Following the occasional piece of flagging tape, we were stumbling through a cut block for the better part of an hour before we decided to blaze our way through the forest. We maintained an south eastern course, using the creek as a reference point and were greeted (occasionally) by the trail. With the soft snow and routefinding issues we managed to turn a two hour trip to the hut into a six hour, back and leg busting slog. Profanity was bellowed. Small critters and birds scurried away. It there were bears in the area, they must have been scared off.
We arrived at the hut well before sunset however, and had the place to ourselves. Things were looking up. After a cup of hot chocolate we rigged up a static line off the main frame of the hut and practiced ascending the line with a Texas Prussik set up.
During a game of cribbage I received the highest-scoring hand of my life. I drew five 5’s and Chris cut a jack, hand worth 28 points. There is only one better hand in the game, a 29, which would have required me to have the jack in my hand and my opponent to cut the last 5.
DAY 2: Keith’s Hut to Mt. Matier Summit and Return We are suckers for punishment. Yes, we’re up at 5 am and out the door by 6 but this was three hours too late!!!! As we leave, the sun has already had an hour on the upper section of the glacier and we are breaking through the snow’s surface with each step.
Our crampons and lighter packs make the going easier, but with each passing minute the work to pull each foot out of the Dairy Queen-esque snowpack is more laborious. We were also worried about avalanche conditions, so we stay high on the glacier, near the rocks. There is no wind at all. Sweat cascades down our faces, and fogs our glasses. After three hours of grueling climbing we reach the glacier col, and welcome a cold breeze helped to solidify the snow and cool us off.
The Hot Rods pepperoni sticks we had packed as reward for making the col turned out to be stale and rotten. I ate mine anyway.
We switch to short rope technique for ascent to the summit of Mt. Matier. We are on the north face where the snow was much harder and consistent. Kicking steps with our crampons is easier and we make great time up the spur. The snow averaged a 45 degree angle, which is very manageable. The climbing requires some transitions from snow to rock, but we manage to make the ascent without placing any protection. Near the summit we discoverer the ridge to be heavily corniced and take a conservative line to the summit.
The descent is fast and fun. We experiment with placing picket protection and running belays, and as our confidence increases, even simulate some falls. The return from the col to the hut is the most difficult section of the day. The snow as super wet — think extra large Sprite Slurpee — and our concerns with avalanche are heightened. We move quickly through the series of chutes, with burning thighs made it to the safety of a rock bench.
With only half the day gone we decide to practice our crevasse rescue technique and found an appropriate cliff. We placed rocks in my bag and threw it over the edge to simulate a victim and made a pulley system to haul it out. Worked perfectly.
We spend the remainder of the day catching rays in the hut and drying our gear. Perhaps the most fortuitous event was the discovery of a full, ice cold beer in the snow outside the hut. JACKPOT!
DAY 3: Keith’s Hut to the car. We leave early to take advantage of the harder snow and the walk out proves to be a simple activity. We make it from Keith’s hut to the car in about three hours walking past our two-foot-deep footprints from two days before. We were enjoying victory beers at the car by 9 AM!
